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ADVENTURES IN SCOTLAND'S CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
Walks in Rob Roy
Country
PART 2:
Walks
for More
Serious
Walkers
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LOOKING EAST DOWN
THE BALQUHIDDER GLEN
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The Loch Lomond & Trossachs National Park is bringing unusual attention to one of
Scotlands natural treasures, an area that was the home of
Rob
Roy MacGregor and is now home to Home at Firsts Central Highlands travel
program. PART 1 told how to get to the region, and how casual
walkers could best experience its scenic wonders. In Part 2 we suggest walks for the
experienced, properly equipped day-hiker and long-distance hiker.
WHAT TO BRING:
Remember to carry the following things,
even if you plan a leisurely stroll:
Something to eat and drink
Raingear or (less helpful) an umbrella
Sun protection & sunglasses
(lets be optimistic!)
Layers to put on and take off: sweater,
windbreaker, gloves, jacket or mackintosh
Maps: Ordnance Survey Pathfinder
(1:25000) Series Sheets NN 41/51 and NN 21/31 or
Landranger (1:50000) Series Sheets
50, 51, & 57 all apply, although not one map
covers all the territory of western
Balquhidder Glen. At the very least, refer to the map
weve designed before heading
out:

MORE THINGS TO BRING:
Serious walkers will be in remote, high
country, often without any clear trail to guide them. To further complicate matters,
quick-moving weather systems sweep in from the North Atlantic across western Scotland and
can turn a fair day into a zero-visibility gray-out almost without warning. Therefore,
wilderness walkers and overnight hikers need to leave word behind of their planned route.
And they need to bring along:
A compass (and know how to use it)
Full weather protection
Enough provisions for 48 hours
First-aid kit
A companion
STARTING OUT
From Balquhidder village, drive west along the
north bank of Loch Voil and Loch Doine, approximately 7 miles to the sign-posted car park
at Inverlochlarig. The car park is the trailhead for several paths in this rugged hill
country.
Walk south from the car park, following a
well-used, broad trail toward the river. After crossing a bridge, the trail becomes a
rough, unpaved road, and takes off due west toward the hills at the end of the glen. In 5
minutes the road wanders through the farmhouses and barns at the Inverlochlarig Farm, then
continues west, crossing a style, staying north of and parallel to the steam (River
Larig). The farm and all the land of the western end of the valley once belonged to
Scotlands bad-boy hero Rob Roy MacGregor.
Now every step leads further from civilization,
the last outpost of which is the farm. The road clambers up and down, following the
topography and following the stream, crossing numerous tributaries on its way west.
RESPECT FOR THE LAND AND
PROPERTY
Be kind to the
environment, here. Stay to the road. Dont bother or touch the animals. Take special
care not to disturb the sheep during the lambing season in the spring. Take all litter
home. Remember, you are guests on private land, which will be welcome to guests only if
the guests respect the land and its owners property.
SERIOUS WALKING
If the walking west of
Inverlochlarig is fine for casual walkers, it is even better for the dedicated day hiker
and the long-distance overnight hiker.
TRIP #1: SOUTH TO LOCH KATRINE
& GLEN GYLE
In 45-60 minutes the road is joined by a barely visible trail leading south, crossing the
River Larig, then gaining elevation across meadowlands, then climbing steeply until
crossing a saddle pass between two humpbacked mountains (Stub aChoin peak is the
eastern hill).
In another 90-120 minutes you reach the pass,
the divide between the Balquhidder Glen, which belongs to the southern Highlands, and Glen
Gyle, in the Trossachs, to the shores of Loch Katrine, former home of young Rob Roy
MacGregor and his family. This serpentine lake drains high-forested mountains on both
sides and naturally sends its water east to the River Forth, the Firth of Forth,
Edinburgh, and the North Sea. Now a long aqueduct alters nature, providing Glasgow with
its excellent drinking water supply by carrying the water west into the Loch Lomond
watershed, the Firth of Clyde and the Atlantic.
Loch Katrine is better known by generations of
readers of Sir Walter Scott, the Scottish romanticist who so portrayed the loch as a
Highlands Valhalla. Plying the loch for several decades has been the venerable steamer,
Sir Walter Scott, taking throngs of noisy tourists up and down the lake on hour-long
standing-room-only cruises.
Day-hikers will turn southeast on the road
along the north shore of Loch Katrine which leads back to civilization 90-120 minutes to
the wharf and car park on the eastern end of the loch.
SS SIR
WALTER SCOTT ON LOCH KATRINE |
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Long-distance hikers will turn northwest along the north shore of Loch Katrine, leading
ever further up Glen Gyle, following an unsightly string of power lines strung up and over
the crest at the upper end of the valley. Expect this often boggy, unmarked route to take
3-4 hours before civilization is again reached at Inverarnan in Glen Falloch (see below).
Times: InverlochlarigLoch Katrine parking lot: 5-7 hours.
InverlochlarigLoch KatrineGlen GyleInverarnan (Glen Falloch Lodge on Rt.
A82 10km south of Crianlarich): 7-10 hours.
Difficulty Rating: 4-5 stars (out of 5-star maximum difficulty)
TRIP #2:
WESTERN BALQUHIDDER GLEN TO THE DIVIDE AND THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
If the trail south over
the saddle pass to Glen Gyle seems obscure, the trail to the western limits of Balquhidder
Glen is, after the end of the road, non-existent.
Follow the road until it abruptly ends at the
confluence of the River Larig with a minor stream coming south from Beinn Chabhair
mountain. Cross the streams, continuing west across the meadow as they climb steadily
towards the watershed. The turf here can be boggy and quite tufted. Wear good hiking boots
and mind your footsteps. It is easy here to soak a boot or turn an ankle.
After 60-90 minutes of climbing, the last part
steeply up the divide, you reach the undulating ridgeline, the border between
Scotlands Strathclyde Region (Loch Lomond) and Central Region (the Balquhidder
side). A scramble up any of the high points along this ridge will reward you with a vast
360° view of some of Scotlands highest peaks and at least three lakes in three
watersheds, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, and Lochs Doine/Voil).
TOWARD
INVERLOCHLARIG FROM THE DIVIDE |
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Day-hikers will turn east here for the 2.5-3 hours back out to the Inverlochlarig car park
and, perhaps, a stop at Monachyle Mhor Hillwalkers Bar and Restaurant for a just
reward.
Long-distance hikers will descend another 60-90
minutes into Glen Falloch, the long north-south valley connecting Glasgow with the
Highlands. The west side descent enters Glen Falloch just north of the northern tip of
Loch Lomond to the River Falloch near the hikers accommodations at Inverarnan. Here
is the main north-south road, the A82, from Glasgow to Glen Coe and Ft. William. Here,
too, is the railroad from Glasgow to Crianlarich and the western Scotland towns of Ft.
William, in the shadows of Ben Nevis, Britains highest peak, and Oban and Mallaig,
on the sea. The nearest passenger rail station is at Ardlui on the west shore of Loch
Lomond, about 1.5-2 miles south of Inverarnan.
Here also at Inverarnan is access to the West
Highland Way, the most famous long-distance trail in Scotland, and possibly in Britain,
which leads, essentially, from Glasgow to Ft. William via drovers roads and old
military tracks. Inverarnan is a key stop on the 5-day trek, as it is roughly two-fifths
of the way from Glasgow to Ft. William.
Times: InverlochlarigRidge Line (round-trip): 5-7 hours.
InverlochlarigRidge LineInverarnan (Glen Falloch Lodge on Rt. A82 10km south
of Crianlarich): 6-9 hours.
Difficulty Rating: 4-5 stars (out of 5-star maximum difficulty)
NOTES: Home
At First guests to Scotland receive the "Scotland Activity Guide",
a 100-page guidebook full of information on what to see and do on holiday in Scotland,
including day-trip suggestions, restaurant tips, information about museums, castles,
distilleries, boat rides, Highland Games, and much more. Also included in our
"Scotland Activity Guide" are dozens of fully-described walks
rated from 1
star to 5 stars like the two described above. For more information on
visiting this part of Scotland,
visit our SCOTLAND
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS page!
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