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Travel is
people. You may go abroad to see the famous sites, but
what you remember best are the people you meet. Among them, like
unexpected treasure, are a few memorable contacts that will make
your travels unique, special, and delightful. "People" is devoted to some
of those you may come in contact with during your Home
At First travels.
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OCTOBER, 2004

It seems most everywhere we go we run into his
name: on bridges, on canals, on roadways, on harbors. There are towns named after him in
England and Pennsylvania. We had to find out more about this man whose path weand
Home at First guests to England, Scotland, Wales, and Swedenso often cross, the man
the called "The Colossus of Roads". |
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THOMAS TELFORD
didnt invent the Industrial Revolution, but he was its first great
star, a star of the order of Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, and Bill Gates. He was the most
glamorous and most sought after civil engineer of his time. He made engineering into a
science and an art. He helped invent modern times, literally paving the way into the
future. Like Elvis prepared the world for the Beatles, Telford caught the publics
imagination, making public acceptance easy for the geniuses that followed, especially
Robert Stephenson and
Isambard Kingdom Brunel.
Telford was a lowlands
Scot, born August 9, 1757, near Langholm, Dumfries & Galloway, a few miles from the
English border, and mid-way between dramatic
Hermitage Castle
and the ill-fated town of
Locherbie. In this region where sheep
vastly outnumber people, Telford was the son of a poor shepherd, and helped support the
family as a shepherd until becoming an apprentice stonemason at 14. From the family farm
at Bentpath (west of the A7 on the B709 in Eskdale), Telfords path led to Scotland,
England, Wales, and Sweden, and always went uphill. The path led ultimately to Westminster
Abbey, where Telford, who died September 2, 1834, aged 77, was buried among the great
kings and citizens of Britain.
Along the way, the path of Thomas Telford crossed many paths familiar to
us at
Home at First.
Join us as we journey with Telford to some of the fascinating
destinations we share. |
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PART 2 (of a four part series):

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A stormy Thames lashes
at the riverside
facade of Somerset House in this
romantic painting by Edward Dayes
from circa 1790. Thomas Telford
learned civil engineering working
on this grand building, now home to
some of London's finest art collections. |
London: After working on Edinburghs New Town, young Thomas Telford went to
London to work on the construction of
Somerset House (shown left
from a contemporary painting). The great neo-classical building replaced a crumbling Tudor
palace on the banks of the Thames northeast of Westminster (and today just across the
river from the London Eye Ferris wheel). It was here that Telford gained his engineering
education and gained a reputation as an emerging talent. A visit to Somerset House is
still informative. Its size and complexity make it a complete course in the trades of
architecture and civil engineering. Today, Somerset House no longer is home to government
offices and the Royal Navy, but to some of Britains great art treasures and an
ever-changing calendar of events, many classical, many eclectic. That its
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neighbor to the east, Londons prestigious
Kings College, is styled like
Somerset House, suggests a connection between art, architecture, education, and
engineering that Thomas Telford would instantly understand. |
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Telford went on to build the trunk road from London to
Holyhead, Wales (and its ferry port
to Dublin) that became one of Britains main transport routes. While it was the Welsh
portion of this road that presented Telford his greatest challenge, it was the importance
of London as hub of the empire that Telfords work was expanding. |

Detail from
Telford's preserved iron footbridge
at St. Katharine's Docks, London.
Photo
© Home At First |
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Once the import
center of
Britain, Thomas Telford's
St. Katharine's Docks have
been converted into St.
Katharine's Marina, an
upscale, pedestrians-only
complex of shops,
restaurants and residences next to the River Thames
at the Tower of London.
Photo
© Home At First |
Such works made the science of civil engineering and the name Thomas Telford inseparable.
When, in 1818, Londons new Institute of Civil Engineers named its first president,
no one was surprised by the choice: Thomas Telford. But late in life Telford did not slow
down. He moved to London, but not to settle down. As he approached 70
old age in the
Victorian era he was still unmarried and still hard at work, among other things,
designing and building (1824-8) Londons great, modern dock facilities just east of
the
Tower of London. Called
St. Katharines Docks, these
state-of-the-art wharves and warehouses welcomed clipper ships bringing exotic cargoes of
rare feathers, decorative shells, tea, indigo, marble, perfume, and ivory from around
the
British Empire. The docks served London well until becoming obliterated by Nazi bombs
during the Blitz.
Today, St. Katharines Docks are East Londons great success
story of urban renewal, having become an upscale yacht basin with trendy shops,
restaurants and fashionable residences, including
Home at Firsts
Apartments at St. Katharines Marina. The Center Dock at St. Katharines has
preserved Thomas Telfords original iron pedestrian drawbridge, an elegant relic very
much in keeping with the style of the modern marina architecture. |
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Six years after St. Katharines Docks
opened Thomas Telford died in London at 77 years old. He was buried in the nave of
Westminster Abbey. Twenty-five years later the body of the great bridge designer and
railway engineer, Robert Stephenson, was interred next to Telfords grave.
Demonstrating a sense of what he owed to his great predecessor, Stephenson had requested
burial by Telford. (Other scientists and engineers buried in Westminster Abbey include:
Sir Isaac Newton,
Charles Darwin,
Lord Kelvin,
Ernest Rutherford, and
Sir J.
J. Thomson.) |
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Shropshire: If London gave Telford the education he had lacked, Shropshire gave him
his first great responsibility and first major achievements. The year was 1788, and the
Industrial Revolution was being fought hard in Shropshire, a sleepy county in western
England bordering North Wales. The new transportation technology that was sweeping
England canals
made it feasible to haul goods and people across the flat lands
of the Midlands (around Birmingham, Manchester, and Liverpool). But could that same
technology be installed across the rugged topography of the Severn River Valley and the
hill country that surrounded it? Telford, who had made a name for himself in London as an
up-and-coming civil engineer and impressed some influential friends, looked like an
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Telford's Pontcysyllte
Aqueduct near
Llangollen, Wales, is still the world's
highest and longest canal aqueduct.
Boat tours carry visitors across its
1000-foot length 126 feet above the
River Dee from nearby Llangollen. |
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young man that might tackle the problems of canal building in hill
country. He was appointed Shropshires Surveyor of Public Works, and, by 1793, was building the
Ellsmere (now the Llangollen) Canal connecting Shropshire with North Wales. Telford
attacked the problem of crossing deep river valleys between the hills by designing huge
masonry aqueducts supporting a canal in cast iron troughs and a towpath. These strong and
elegant structures seemed to fly across the eastern Welsh valleys
and still do today.
Home at First visitors to Shropshire can easily see Telfords great arched
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (and even ride across its 1,000-foot length in a canal boat
126 feet above the River Dee) near Llangollen, Wales, and the dual
Chirk Aqueduct and
Viaduct by
Chirk Castle near the Welsh/English border town of Wrexham. The great works
once carried iron, coal, freight, mail and passengers in the days before the railroads
came to Britain. Today, 200 years later, the canals carry canal boats and other pleasure
craft full of vacationers who see Wales and England slowly on board narrow boats. |
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Walking along the
Shropshire Union Canal.
No hills, rural scenery, pub refreshments. |
Closer to home, guests to
Home
At First cottages on the
Shropshire/Cheshire border can walk along the towpaths of Telfords Llangollen
Canal and his Shropshire Union Canal (built 1826-35 as the Birmingham and Liverpool
Junction Canal). Canal walking is a great way to enjoy the sleepy countryside of pretty
western England. Enhance your walk with a stop at any of many public houses that serve
canal travelers to this day.
Shropshire has not always slumbered. In the
early 18th century, a fellow named
Abraham Darby, who lived in the Shropshire
hill country east of Shrewsbury, |
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way to mass produce cast iron. This discovery set in motion a chain of
events that changed the world. Today we call this momentous change the
Industrial Revolution. Among the first applications of mass produced
cast iron was in a bridge at a place near Coalbrookdale along the River Severn now called
Ironbridge. The graceful great arch still stands, and is one of Britains
contributions to the United Nations list of
World Heritage Sites. Thomas Telford certainly
knew Ironbridge. His own iron and masonry bridges crossed the Severn at several points,
including Montfort (1792), Bildwas (1796) Bridgnorth (1810), Bewdley (1797-1801), Holt
Fleet (1828), Mythe (Tewkesbury, 1826), |
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and Over (Gloucester,
1831). These latter four bridges may be visited by
Home at First guests to the Cotswolds
simply by tracing the River Severn north from Gloucester.
Telford also built the A5 trunk road from London to Holyhead, Wales, right through
Shropshire, passing just to the north of Ironbridge Gorge. When the British government
decided to built a completely new town to wake up the economy of this sleepiest part of
Shropshire in the 1960s, the high-tech town was named after its best-known adopted
son, Thomas Telford. |

A statue of
Thomas Telford leans on his
namesake town's sign in Shropshire. |
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YOUR DREAM TRIP BEGINS BY CONTACTING
a
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You can travel in the footsteps of Thomas Telford
and discover
history from some of the living monuments to this great engineer.
More information about travel with Home
At First:
To ENGLAND
To SCOTLAND To WALES
To SWEDEN
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