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| ADVENTURES IN IRELAND
WALKING THE
LOUGH
DERG
WAY
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GARRYKENNEDY
TRAIL SIGNS |
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PAGE
3
Photos
© HOME AT FIRST |
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SECTION 2—R494
LOOKOUT TO GARRYKENNEDY
(cont'd.) |
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Ultimately the route's middle section leads into the harbor village of
Garrykennedy (map point 6), home to a marina and two pubs that
feature traditional Irish music on many evenings: Larkin’s
and Ciss Ryans. Garrykennedy harbor originally handled slate exports and imported
fuel and Guinness. Slate may be dead, but the fuel—now for yachts and
cruisers—and Guinness, flows as plentifully as ever. |
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Oh
yes, the tiny village is complete with its own ruined O’Kennedy fortified stone tower
(c. 1480) at the harbor. Garrykennedy marina parking lot makes a convenient end point for
this second (middle) section of the 3-day version of the Lough Derg Way. And the pubs
offer good sustenance for hungry and thirsty hikers.
LARKIN'S
PUB, GARRYKENNEDY
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SECTION
3—GARRYKENNEDY TO DROMINEER: |
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The Way turns south for a short distance inland to the territory of Youghal
("eochaill"—Gaelic for "yew wood"; map point 7). Another medieval
churchyard—inland a short detour from Youghal—offers another look at carved
crosses, angels, and grave slabs. If the weather is warm Youghal harbor offers safe
swimming in the lake.
From Youghal the Lough Derg Way sticks close to
shore and mostly away from civilization, as it circumnavigates the Youghalarra Bay (map
point 8) towards Ryan’s Point.
IRISH LETTERBOX BUILT
INTO A WALL ALONG THE LOUGH
DERG WAY. THE INITIALS "E R" DATE THE BOX FROM THE
REIGN OF EDWARD
VII (1901-10) KING OF ENGLAND
BEFORE THE CREATION OF AN INDEPENDENT IRELAND (1922).
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couple of miles follows back roads to Dromineer (map point 9), another former working port
turned into pleasure craft haven. Like Garrykennedy, Dromineer has more history than it
does residents. There’s a medieval castle ruin built for the powerful O’Kennedy
clan in the 1500’s. There are church ruins in Irish-Romanesque style of the 12th
century—but perhaps dating from the 10th. Dromineer’s Lough Derg Yacht Club is
far from in ruins, but is even so historic. Dating from 1837, it is third oldest in the
world! |
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Dromineer offers parking, a good pub/restaurant (The Whiskey Still), a small shop at the
post office, and The Dromineer Bay Restaurant featuring both fine and casual dining, as
well as public facilities—toilets, playground, and beach. Still, at the northern end
of the Lough Derg Way, Dromineer is less a terminus, and more another chance to experience
the simple pleasures of rural Ireland—a quiet village with venerable-if-not-vaunted
history and simple beauty. |
DROMINEER
HARBOR WITH
O'KENNEDY CASTLE RUIN |
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SHOES—While
the route is not athletically challenging, and the path is frequently 
