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For two weeks over the cusp of July and August 2007 the
population of England temporarily swelled with the invasion of Stanley &
Jane Wilderoter and their extended family of twenty-two, first for a
week in the Lake District, then for a week in London. Apparently England
survived with minimal wear and tear, despite reports that petrol prices
soared in the weeks following the family’s travels around England with
five Hyundai Santa Fe SUVs.
While in the English Lake District, the Wilderoter Clan
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The invading force at a
rare moment of relative
inactivity in England's Lake District. Their
uniform: Scottish blue tee shirts sporting
the legend "Wilderoter England Tour 2007". |
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headquarters was Home At First’s
LAKEVIEW APARTMENTS
near the traffic-free village of
HAWKSHEAD
near Lake Windermere in the southern
LAKE DISTRICT.
(The family occupied all eight Lakeview Apartments plus a neighboring
cottage!)
After a week exploring the mountains and lakes of northwestern
England, the family drove their SUVs south to London’s Heathrow Airport,
where the cars were turned in. A bus collected the
family at Heathrow and negotiated London's notorious |
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THE
WILDEROTER CLAN'S FLEET OF FIVE RENTED
SUVs, LINED UP IN FRONT OF THEIR LAKEVIEW
APARTMENTS NEAR HAWKSHEAD, CUMBRIA.
photos courtesy Stanley Wilderoter |
congestion without incident, delivering them to their
LONDON
apartments at
HOME AT FIRST’S ST. KATHARINE’S MARINA
location on the north side of the River Thames and one of Home At
First’s apartments near the Tower Bridge on the south side of the river.
In London the family used Underground (subway) trains and buses to get
around. Apparently none of the group became lost from the others, at
least not for long — everyone made their return flights home to the
States.
Stanley and Jane had previously travelled (2005 & 2006) with
Home At First to
Scotland
(twice) and
Wales,
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each time bringing some family members along, but for 2007
decided to bring along the whole clan. What about 2008? We hear
the whole clan is off to South America this year. We hope to
have the traveling Wilderoter family back with us again soon. |
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After nearly 500 years, Anne Boleyn’s sister Mary is making
headlines of her own. Subject of a best-selling book that is currently
in theaters as a major motion picture, Mary Boleyn was “The Other Boleyn
Girl” in the life of King Henry VIII. The movie, shot at period
locations throughout the English county of Kent southeast of London,
chronicles the era when Henry, already in his forties, was pursuing
affairs with various courtiers, resulting in the end of his marriage of
24 years with
Catherine of Aragon.
The film is heavily fictionalized —
Henry is portrayed as a younger man, and Anne and Mary of similar
age and involved with Henry almost simultaneously
— but, otherwise, critical political
issues of the day are addressed. The practice of paring off daughters to
powerful men — even
already married ones —
by ambitious families is the dominant theme. The great concern of
the English monarchy —
that healthy male heirs be available to provide for political
stability across the generations —
receives proper attention. The period costumes and locations also
lend historical accuracy to the film.
While younger sister
Anne Boleyn
became queen, the movie suggests that older sister Mary had really won
the King’s heart, and, of course, kept her head when, it seemed, all
about her were losing theirs. Anne Boleyn, of course, had her head
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The film version of
PHILIPPA
Gregory's best-selling novel
about Mary Boleyn is OPU-
lently styled Tudor fiction.
The film has great appeal to audiences who enjoy a good
soap opera, much as a true history of the life and loves
of King Henry VIII would. |
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removed at the
TOWER OF LONDON,
as did another of Henry’s six queens,
Kathryn Howard,
Anne’s younger cousin. The rooms where these wives of King Henry VIII
were imprisoned, and the gravesites of both these queens may be visited
at the Tower. |
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"The Tudors" second season
on Showtime (cable TV) promises
lots of passion and little
compassion. The real King
Henry VIII was larger than
life. Showtime's version is
Henry on steroids (with
SOME Viagra thrown in). |
Following the 10 episodes of a first season, television’s
Showtime (SHO) Channel screens a second season of ten new episodes
devoted to the dramatic presentation of England’s royal Tudor dynasty.
Like the current movie, “The Other Boleyn Girl” (see above), “The
Tudors” takes lots of liberties with the historical record to ensure a
lively, lusty drama every week. Still, Henry VIII, his six wives and
numerous mistresses, his powerful daughters, and endless court intrigues
provide the perfect platform for modern popular theater: illicit love,
intense jealousy, high-level power struggles, sudden violence, and
sumptuous costumes with plunging necklines. The second season begins
with the divorce between King Henry VIII and his first wife,
Catherine of Aragon,
a divorce which forces England from the Church of Rome, a divorce that
permits the king to marry his pregnant mistress,
Anne Boleyn,
while the queen of 24 years is exiled from London and the court. Who
knew history could be the stuff of soap operas?
The first episode of the second season
aired March 30. See your local listings for Showtime. |
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turbulent reign of Henry VIII and the other Tudor monarchs still stand.
All are easily reachable from
HOME AT FIRST’S LONDON
apartments near The Tower of London.
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GETTING THERE: Home At First London guests: walk to The Tower of London
in 5-10 minutes. Entrance fee charged.
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Hever Castle
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HEVER CASTLE
30 miles south of London near Edenbridge, Kent: the medieval Bullen
(Boleyn) family home where Mary and
Anne Boleyn
grew up is well-restored and full of Tudor associations with the
Boleyns, King Henry VIII, and his fourth wife,
Anne of Cleves,
who was presented Hever Castle as part of her agreement to end her
marriage with Henry.
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GETTING THERE: Home At First London
guests: Tube from Tower Hill (9 stops; 14 minutes) to Victoria Station.
Take the train from Victoria Station 45 minutes to Edenbridge Town, then
take a taxi three miles to the castle. Trains run hourly, with a change
of trains necessary at East Croydon. Entrance fee charged.
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THE QUEEN’S HOUSE AT THE NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM
and University of Greenwich Maritime Campus, are
both located in Greenwich
(the home of the Prime Meridian) on the Thames about 30
minutes east of London. The
National Maritime Museum (NMM) occupies the site of the
medieval Greenwich Palace
of Placentia, which figured
greatly in the lives of Henry VIII, his wives (and especially
Catherine of Aragon,
Anne
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The Queen's House
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Boleyn,
and
Anne of Cleves), and their children.
Henry VIII, and his daughters Mary I and Elizabeth I were born at the
palace, and his son, the teenaged King Edward VI, died there. The
Queen's House was built during the reign of King James I (son of
Elizabeth I). The old palace was torn down after the Restoration, and
replaced with a new royal residence that is now the Maritime Campus of
the University of Greenwich. Visitors can wander the grounds where
medieval jousts were regularly held, and can explore the NMM, with its
treasury of art, including some of the best remaining Tudor portraits on
display in the Queen's House.
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GETTING THERE: Home At First London
guests: Docklands Light Rail (DLR) from Tower Gateway DLR station (22
minutes) to Greenwich DLR station. Trains run as frequently as every 7
minutes, with a change of trains necessary at Westferry DLR station.
Alternatively: travel by Thames river boat from St. Katharine's Pier by
the Tower Bridge to Greenwich (45 minutes; boats depart as frequently as
every 20 minutes). Entrance fee: free.
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Westminster Abbey
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WESTMINSTER ABBEY,
the 750+-year-old cathedral church in central London,
is where
Anne
Boleyn was crowned Queen, and where her daughter,
Queen Elizabeth I lays buried next to her half-sister Queen (Bloody)
Mary I. Fifteen other English monarchs (including the
Tudors Edward VI and
ANNE OF CLEVES)
and numerous notables (including Shakespeare, Chaucer, Dickens, Milton,
Churchill, Tennyson, Blake,
Brunel,
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Telford,
Trevithick,
Darwin, John & Charles
Wesley, Fox, Handel, Johnson, and Jonson, even Oliver Cromwell and Major
John André) are buried or commemorated in the abbey.
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GETTING THERE: Home At First London
guests: tube from Tower Hill (7 stops and 11 minutes) to Westminster.
Entrance fee charged.
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LEEDS CASTLE,
south of London near Maidstone, Kent: beautiful medieval castle
surrounded by water where King Henry VIII visited with his first wife,
Catherine of Aragon
on the way to a jousting tournament in France in
1520 where he met King Francis I. Mary Boleyn, formerly a courtier in
the French court and mistress to Francis I, was possibly a
lady-in-waiting to Catherine of Aragon when the English king stopped
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Leeds Castle
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at Leeds Castle. Younger sister
Anne Boleyn
may have attended the jousts as
a lady-in-waiting of the French court. Maybe she first met Henry VIII
there.
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GETTING THERE: Home At First London
guests: Tube from Tower Hill (9 stops; 14 minutes) to Victoria Station.
Take the train from Victoria Station 60 minutes to Bearsted, then take
the shuttle bus to the castle. Trains run hourly, but specific trains
are met by the shuttle bus. Entrance fee charged.
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Hampton Court Palace
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HAMPTON COURT PALACE,
in the south London suburb of East Molesey near Kingston upon Thames:
the former home of powerful Cardinal Wolsey became Henry’s when he
stripped Wolsey and split with the Church of Rome in order to divorce
Catherine of Aragon and wed
Anne Boleyn.
Henry's fifth wife,
Catherine Howard,
was famously arrested at Hampton Court for infidelity, pursued running
and screaming down the castle
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corridors while chased by the king's guards. While the palace has
changed over the years, it still has much of its Tudor architecture.
Palace guides dressed in Tudor fashions lead tours of the Tudor
apartments and play the roles of major and minor castle residents from
the 16th century.
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GETTING THERE: Home At First London
guests at St. Katharine's Marina apartments: Tube from Tower Hill (8
stops; 23 minutes; change at Embankment to Northern Line direction
Morden) to Waterloo Station. Home At First London guests at The Brewery
Apartments: Tube from London Bridge (2 stops on the Jubilee Line; 6
minutes) to Waterloo Station. Take the train from Waterloo Station 36
minutes to Hampton Court rail station, then walk 220 yards to the
castle. Trains run half-hourly. Entrance fee charged.
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WINDSOR CASTLE,
in the small town of Windsor about 30 minutes west of London: final
resting place of King Henry VIII (and 9 other monarchs).
Windsor is the world's oldest and largest
continuously occupied castle, and is loaded with historical and
architectural treasures. Henry's huge suit of armor is one of Windsor's
gathering points, and proves his size and athleticism. Henry
VIII saw to
the completion of the magnificent late-medieval St. George’s Chapel at
the castle,
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St. George's Chapel
at Windsor Castle
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one of many treasures you may visit there, if the current monarch is not
in residence. Henry himself lies interred in the
chapel, as does his third wife,
JANE SEYMOUR.
It is expected that Britain's current monarch, Queen Elizabeth II, will
be laid to rest here when she dies.
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GETTING THERE: Home At First London
guests at St. Katharine's Marina apartments: Tube from Tower Hill (11
stops on the Circle Line counterclockwise; 25 minutes) to Paddington
Station. Take the train from Paddington Station (change trains at
Slough) 35 minutes total journey time to Windsor & Eton Central rail
station, then walk 5 minutes to the castle. Trains run half-hourly.
Home At First London guests at The Brewery Apartments: Tube from London
Bridge (2 stops on the Jubilee Line; 6 minutes) to Waterloo Station.
Take the train from Waterloo Station 53 minutes to Windsor & Eton
Riverside rail station, then walk 5 minutes to the castle. Trains run
half-hourly.
Entrance fee to Windsor Castle charged. |
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— Discover the Tudors on their home turf:
ENGLAND
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