|
| |
|
The Yorkshire Dales are a rumpled counterpane of stark, lonely
valleys spread across a sizeable swath of
North Yorkshire in north central
England. Blessed with remarkable beauty, the Yorkshire Dales have been
designated a national park. But for those living in or near the Dales the
region’s rugged profile is both a blessing and a curse. |
|

YORKSHIRE DALES SCENERY VIEWED
FROM A WENSLEYDALE RAILWAY TRAIN.
Photo by
Ian Britton, FreeFoto.com |
Most of the dales run north to south, draining the hilly interior with
a parade of minor rivers flowing generally to the southeast to collect at the
great common outlet river called the Humber. Such are the geographic
convolutions of the Dales that no main roads and no railroads cross the region
from east to west for over eighty miles. Only two long valleys cross North
Yorkshire on an east-west axis. One of these, Wensleydale, is straight, wide,
and flat enough to provide a through route for a minor road (the A684). Once
upon a time a forty-mile-long railroad also rambled through Wensleydale
connecting with |
|
major railways east and west of the Dales, providing residents of the Dales
rail access to the rest of Britain, and visitors from all over Britain
rail access to the Dales.
During the 1950s, when Britain “rationalized” its extensive rail
network by abandoning lightly used rural lines throughout
England,
Scotland, and
Wales, the western eighteen miles of the Wensleydale line were torn up, leaving
the twenty-two eastern miles in place but isolated. Then in 1990 the
Wensleydale
Railway Association was formed with ambitions bring passenger and freight
services back to the still-in-place eastern half of the line and, eventually, to
rebuild the western half of the line to reconnect the
East Coast
Mainline with
the Settle-Carlisle
Line.
|
 |
|
CLICK TO SEE LARGE MAP OF THE
WENSLEYDALE RAILWAY
|
|
Like the semi-fictional
Titfield Thunderbolt — the delightful 1953
English film about a community that decides to take over operations of its
to-be-abandoned branch line — the Wensleydale Railway Association is driven by
local initiative and inspired by an eccentric cast of characters that includes
Michael Palin (of the Monty Python troop); Lord
Harry Algar
Nigel Orde-Powlett, Baron
Bolton, whose estate includes the 14th century
Bolton Castle near
Redmire Station along the railway; Mike Harding, British humorist, musician,
filmmaker, poet, and outdoorsman; Robert Hardy, English actor whose credits
include the Harry Potter film series (character: Cornelius Fudge) and,
especially, the BBC TV series “All Creatures Great & Small” (character:
Siegfried Farnon), which was set in nearby Thirsk just east of the Dales; and
Christopher Awdry, author of many books on British railroading, including the
last 14 of the 41 books of The Railway Series of
Thomas the Tank Engine
stories begun by his father, the Rev. W. Awdry. |

THOMAS THE TANK ENGINE
OCCASIONALLY VISITS THE
WENSLEYDALE RAILWAY.
Photo by
Ian Britton, FreeFoto.com |
|

Wensleydale Creamery
Visitor
Centre, home of one of England's
greatest artisan cheeses:
Real Yorkshire Wensleydale.
Photo
courtesy Wensleydale Creamery. |
Since 2003 the nearly all-volunteer
Wensleydale Railway has been
operating (mostly) passenger and (a few) freight trains on its still
semi-isolated route from Leeming Bar west to Redmire. The railway will
celebrate the fifth anniversary of its rebirth on July 4 with a special combined
train/bus run west from Leeming Bar to Redmire to Hawes, where passengers will
tour and have lunch at the Wensleydale Creamery’s Visitor Centre, epicenter,
arguably, of England’s artisan cheese industry:
home of the award-winning Wensleydale cheeses. Still frustrating the railway’s
ambitions are disconnects at both ends of the line. Currently the focus is on
building an improved connection with Britain’s high-speed east |
|
coast mainline at Northallerton. The current
5.25-mile connection between Leeming Bar and Northallerton is rarely
used, because it requires a complicated back-up move ever since the
original spur was closed years ago. Until a new spur can be built the
railway uses a bus connection to carry passengers between its Leeming
Bar station and British Rail’s mainline station at Northallerton. |
|
If the Wensleydale Railway still goes from nowhere to nowhere, it does
so with flair and ambition. Its operating schedule is that of a nostalgic
tourist railroad — mostly weekends and holidays until the warmer months, then
service expands to three round-trips a day on most days. Many days from
mid-March through October, rail service is augmented at both ends of the line by
vintage bus connections to Ripon bus station (east end) and the British Rail
station at Garsdale (west end). During the latter half of this coming summer the
railway hopes to offer special steam locomotives on many scheduled trains.
Round-trip fares
end-to-end are reasonable: £10.80/adult, |

WENSLEYDALE RAILWAY TRAIN
AWAITS PASSENGERS AT THE PLATFORM.
Photo by
Ian Britton, FreeFoto.com |
|
£9/senior, £5.40/kids 5-15, and £21/family (2 adults + up to 3
children), and let you break your journey along the way to walk.
One-way fares are also available for
walkers and cyclists (bikes carried
for free). |
|

Vintage bus en route to
Wensleydale.
Photo
courtesy www.dalesbus.org. |
Like rural railroads of the past, the Wensleydale Railway has had to
dream up reasons to attract riders. The many charms of the Yorkshire Dales and
Wensleydale in particular provide the railway’s creative volunteer workforce
with great excuses for a day out on the railway. This year’s events calendar
brims with the eccentric stuff of The Dales, including the May 28 special
departing at 10:05AM from Leeming Bar for “A visit to Herriot Country”. Other
themed specials include a guided tour July 30 of Bolton Castle with railway
patron Lord Bolton as the guide; and runs to a brass band
|
|
festival (Sept. 7), Dales
crafts shops (July 2, Sept. 17, Nov.
29) and sheepdog display (Sept. 18),
and to explore the line’s past and future
development (east |
|
end June 27;west end July 12 and October 3). Food is a great attraction
in Wensleydale, and the railway offers several food-themed trips
including combined rail/entry to/from the annual
Dales Food & Drink Festival at Leyburn
(occurs in early May); a
cream tea June 15, a
hog roast June 21, and a
fireworks special (for Guy Fawkes Day)
with mulled wine November 1.
In the end, it’s the magnificent outdoors that brings people to the
Dales. Again this year the Wensleydale Railway offers a regular program of
guided 5-to-6-mile-long walks, each
beginning at late mornings on set dates from |

Wensleydale in the fading
light of
a late afternoon in early September.
Photo by
Ian Britton, FreeFoto.com |
|

Steam-powered special on the Wensleydale
Railway. THE VALLEY
HAS ITS BELOVED RAILWAY BACK!
Photo by
Ian Britton, FreeFoto.com |
Redmire or Leyburn stations. Walks occur throughout the year, including
“The Twelve Walks of Christmas”: a
dozen walks over as many days. Imagine walking in the frosty grandeur of
the Yorkshire Dales at the most festive time of year, then returning by
train savoring holiday mince pies and hot, mulled wine.
In 1953,
Titfield Thunderbolt won the hearts of theatergoers
nostalgic for a disappearing English way of life. In 2008, the Wensleydale
Railway thrives by providing local residents and visitors to the Yorkshire Dales
with the opportunity to live the dream. What goes around has come around, again. |
| |
|