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Once upon a time
there was a great warrior king whose bold vision led his
impoverished nation out of the backwaters of medieval Europe to forge a
modern
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Gustavus Adolphus "The
Great",
King of Sweden and architect
of the Swedish Empire. |
empire. Following the Christless Cross of Protestantism and
leading a professional army well-versed in the use of the latest
military technology, the 31-year-old king felt invincible invading
little Livonia, knowing his incursion would pour gasoline on the fires
of war raging across the continent. The king had nothing to lose but his
life: gloriously for his country and creed.
King since a teenager,
Gustavus Adolphus had known little else but the glories of war. His
minor country, Sweden, was only now awakening from its long continuous
slumber extending from the last Ice Age. The Vikings—the king’s
ancestors—once were the scourge of Europe, but they were not so much a
coordinated imperial force as they were loose, illiterate, tribes
seeking new horizons in warmer, friendlier climes. The Vikings reached
the height of their influence across Europe and into the western fringes
of Asia and even the Atlantic into coastal North America some six
hundred years earlier. |
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Times in Sweden were
different in the late Middle Ages—as they were across Europe. Over two
centuries the Renaissance spread new ideas of government, religion, art,
printing, science, warfare, and commerce north and west from its initial
rise in north-central Italy. Luther’s Protestant Reformation reinforced
the secular notions of individualism and materialism hinted at by the
economic rise of the most progressive of the Italian city-states. A
distinctive new class—the middle class—of shopkeepers, craftsmen,
printers, bankers, and traders began appearing across Northern Europe,
perhaps first in the semi-independent commercial port towns of the
Hanseatic League. From such humble beginnings the common interest of
such associations led to visions of nationhood and empire. Powerful
families arose, claiming nobility, and amalgamating city states,
duchies, and minor principalities that shared common language, religion,
commercial goals, and defensive imperatives into new kingdoms. In
Britain,
Henry VIII
merged England plus Scotland plus Wales into the United Kingdom, united
against Roman Catholicism, united against the Holy Roman Empire, united
against the commercial competition of Spain and France. In north
Germany, powerful regional states emerged in Westphalia and Prussia, as
well as along the Baltic under the leadership of noble families who saw
Protestantism as the means to free their regions from the dominance of
the Holy Roman Empire.
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In the Catholic south the
Holy Roman Empire and the Austrian dynasty of the Hapsburgs arose before
the Reformation and consolidated its power from Hungary to Spain in
opposition to the new Protestant threat from the north sweeping across
Germany, Holland, Poland, Britain, and Scandinavia. Hapsburg princes in
Spain, Austria, Hungary, Portugal, and in parts of France and Holland
and the modern day Czech Republic led an aggressive Counter Reformation,
allied with Catholic nobility from some German states including Hesse,
Bavaria, Saxony, and the Palatinate. The pressures of the Reformation
vs. the Counter Reformation led to the Thirty Years War which consumed
much of Europe from 1618-48.
In the north, the Vasa
dynasty had consolidated Sweden as an independent—if
impoverished—kingdom about 100 years before the start of the Thirty
Years War. Sweden became a staunch bastion of Lutheranism with close
ties to Poland and the Baltic states. Two generations after Gustav Vasa
created the Kingdom of Sweden and adopted Lutheranism as the state
religious, his namesake Gustavus Adolphus became King of Sweden at age
17. |

War consumed Europe
during the
first half of the 17th century. The
Swedish Empire emerged from the
tragedy of the Thirty Years War.
Photo
© Home At First. |
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Already a
seasoned warrior in wars his father fought with Poland and Denmark,
Gustavus Adolphus showed great aptitude for military leadership. He saw
in the troubled times of Europe an opportunity for Sweden to gain
influence, power, and commercial wealth. In 1625, at the age of 31, he
seized the opportunity by leading his well-trained Swedish army on an
expedition into north Germany, Poland, and the Baltic States. Gustavus
Adolphus had evolved from brash teenager into Gustav Adolph the Great,
founder of the Swedish Empire. He became a great general, credited as
the developer of modern warfare, and served as a model for future
military greats from Napoleon Bonaparte to George Patton. He also
centralized Sweden’s government, coordinating internal and external
affairs from Stockholm. As a near dictatorial king, Gustavus Adolphus
held the final word on Sweden’s policies domestic and international.
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Map of 17th century Sweden's Baltic Empire.
Photo
© Home At First. |
Gustav Adolph the Great’s
military campaigns built Sweden’s power and influence, and enlarged its
treasury, too. Stockholm became the center of northern Europe, and the
Baltic Sea became a Swedish lake. Sweden’s far-reaching empire was built
on military power and on commercial enterprise, and both its power and
enterprise were dependent upon Sweden’s historical prowess as
shipbuilders and sailors. At a time when empires depended upon strong
navies, Sweden joined Spain, France, Britain, and the Netherlands as a
major naval power. And, like Spain, France, Britain, and the
Netherlands, Sweden established a large, modern merchant fleet to
connect and supply its far flung empire.
Building Sweden’s modern
navy was a huge challenge for Gustav’s would-be empire. Baltic Sea
battles during the 1620s had decimated Sweden’s older, lighter navy.
Gustav Adolph had to act immediately to refit the Swedish Navy. And he
seized the opportunity to upgrade the navy to world class marine status.
Britain, France, and Spain had been building sea-going giants for a
century.
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Sweden’s ambitious king wanted to outfit his navy with battleships
featuring the latest technology in double-decked heavy cannon platforms
that could dominate the Baltic with fierce, constant broadside
firepower. He called for the construction of five new flagships of the
realm, to be built in Stockholm’s shipyards under the direction of
master shipbuilders imported from Holland. The first of these super
ships would be the Vasa, to be gloriously decorated
and armed to the teeth with two decks of the heaviest cannon available.
Named after the king’s royal family, Vasa would be the pride of
the nation like Henry VIII’s great warship Mary Rose had become
the pride of Tudor England a century earlier. One of the largest wooden
ships ever built, the Vasa was ¾ the length of a football field,
and weighed 1,300 tons, and carried 64 guns, including 48 heavyweight
24lb cannons. (The Vasa was virtually identical in length, width,
and tonnage of the last great wooden ship,
Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s
Great Western, launched in Britain 210 years after the Vasa’s
maiden voyage.) |
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In the summer of 1628
after two years of rushed construction that featured several major
design changes, the great ship prepared to launch. Alas, the Vasa
was doomed. Shallow of draft and broad of beam, the richly decorated and
mightily armed Vasa carried too many heavy cannon on its upper
deck and too many castles and other high-mounted structures. On its
maiden voyage on August 10, among of an armada of well-wishers and
foreign dignitaries, the precariously top-heavy Vasa pitched radically
in response to warm zephyrs it encountered en route across the otherwise
calm Stockholm harbor. Plowing the harbor with its cannon ports open to
impress the crowd and fire salutes, the Vasa pitched over far
enough to scoop the briny Baltic through its lower gun deck ports.
Enough water sloshed into the great ship to cause it to list heavily.
When the tons of ballast loaded in the ships belly to lower its center
of gravity shifted as the ship listed, Vasa took on more and more
water, then suddenly
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Model of the Vasa
showing the ship's elaborate
ornamentation and two rows of heavy cannons
projecting from broadside port holes.
Photo
© Home At First. |
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sunk in water about 100 feet deep, shallow enough for the flags atop its
masts to wave above the waves. Although the catastrophe took place less
than 500 feet offshore, between 30-50 crew and passengers were trapped
and drowned inside the ship.
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Model of the Vasa
showing the ship's fatal listing
to port on her maiden voyage in Stockholm harbor.
Photo
© Home At First. |

Gustav Adolph the Great
was away at war. When the news of the Vasa calamity reached him, he was
livid. Insisting the cause of the disaster must have been “imprudence
and negligence,” the king ordered an immediate inquiry to find those
responsible. The inquest convened in September, but could not fix blame.
The crew had been alert and sober, and no evidence could be found that
they failed to perform their jobs properly. The Vasa’s designers
and builders all certified they had followed the directions and plans
approved by the king himself. The ship’s loss meant a huge loss to
Sweden’s treasury and more. It meant the Swedish Navy would
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have to rely on its few, weak, outdated warships for months longer
during the height of Gustavus Adolphus’s Baltic campaign.
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The king caught a break.
He had wanted the great cannons and munitions raised from the sunken
Vasa. But the technology did not then exist to salvage heavy weights
from the murky harbor bottom. His fleet, decimated by the tiny
Polish-Lithuanian combined navy (nine ships) off Danzig in 1627, would
be of little help to him until it could be rebuilt. But in 1628 and 1629
the war turned inland, and the navies played only minor roles. And
Gustavus Adolphus, developer of mixing infantry, cavalry, and artillery
in fast, coordinated movements, proved to be the master of modern
warfare on land, personally led his Swedish forces to victory over the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth led by his Catholic cousin Sigismund III
Vasa, King of Poland. By 1630 Sweden controlled |

King Gustavus II
Adolphus visits Stockholm's shipyard
in January 1628 to consult with the shipbuilders about
the construction of the king's great warship, the Vasa.
(Life-sized diorama from Stockholm's Vasa Museum.)
Photo
© Home At First. |
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most of the Baltic, and began growing wealthy from its taxation on
foreign commerce. The Swedish Empire was a new reality. Soon, bolstered
by the consolidation of the small Polish-Lithuanian navy and the
addition of the four new (and slightly altered) Vasa-class super ships, the Baltic had become a
Swedish lake policed by the Swedish Navy.
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Stockholm's Riddarholmen
Church
is the final rest of King Gustav II
Adolf (the Great) and Swedish
monarchs from the 13th century
to the 20th century. The church
adjoins Stockholm's Royal Palace
on a small island by Gamla Stan,
the old city of Stockholm. |
The Thirty Years War
raged across Europe, with the Roman Catholic forces apparently winning
most of the battle against its Protestant foes. With newfound power,
wealth, and confidence Sweden’s Gustav Adolph the Great, the upstart
king from the north, now determined to take on the powerful Holy Roman
Empire—Europe’s largest “nation”. Sweden’s army introduced the forces of
the Protestant states of Germany (including Prussia) to the new tactics
of modern warfare it had used to win in the Baltic. The tide turned. By
the end of the Thirty Years War—in 1648—the Holy Roman Empire had been
reduced to irrelevancy, a third of its population dead, and Sweden
emerged as a great European power and the protector of Protestantism.
But for Sweden victory, riches, and empire came at a cost: King Gustav
Adolph the Great, “Lion of the North”, the ambitious king who created
the Swedish Empire was killed leading his celebrated cavalry in the
Battle of Lützen in eastern Germany.
The body of King Gustavus
Adolphus was interred in Stockholm’s historic Riddarholmen Church near
Sweden’s Royal Palace. Swedes have never forgotten the king who led
Sweden into its golden age.
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But Sweden largely forgot
the wreck of the
Vasa. For about 325 years, that is. In the 1950s the old wreck
was located and a recovery planned. In 1961 the Vasa’s skeletal
remains plus many artifacts of the great ship emerged from Stockholm
harbor. Since that time a sustained effort to stabilize and preserve the
Vasa has challenged archeologists and conservators as have few
projects anywhere. Now housed in a modern, purpose-built museum on the
island of Djurgården, the massive hulk of the Vasa rests only a
few hundred yards north where she had foundered almost 400 years ago.
The tomb of King Gustav Adolph the Great lies a few hundred yards to the
west. |
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Opened in 1990,
Stockholm’s Vasa Museum has become the most popular museum in
Scandinavia, averaging more than a million visitors annually for its
first 19 years of operation. (The population of Stockholm is about
815,000.) Visitors come to see the remarkably complete Vasa, the world’s
only preserved 17th century warship. Beyond the vast, hulking
ship that dominates the open space of four floors of the museum in its
constant 65°F, 55% humidity and dim, blue-black lighting, visitors
discover a number of ancillary exhibitions: some detailing the problems
of salvaging and preserving the Vasa, others telling the story of the
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The hulk of the Vasa on
display while undergoing
preservation, study, and restoration inside the great
indoor, climate-controlled space of the Vasa Museum.
Photo
© Home At First |
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ship’s
construction and maiden voyage, and others devoted to contemporary life
in 17th century Sweden—a nation on the
verge of its golden age. What is really preserved at the Vasa Museum is
a key historic moment frozen in time: Western Civilization captured just
as it was emerging from the cocoon of the Middle Ages and entering a
modern age of nationalism, technology, and empire. To visit the Vasa
Museum is to ride the world’s largest wooden sailing time machine back
to 1628. The ride is thrilling, precarious, even dangerous. But the ride
is an enlightening adventure, just like the remarkable reign of King
Gustavus II Adolphus Vasa. |
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OPEN: 8:30AM-6PM
June-August; 10AM-5PM Sep-May.
Closed December 23-25, 31 and
January 1.
ADMISSION: 110SEK/adult;
80SEK/students with ID; free to children under 19.
SPECIAL REDUCED ADMISSION
Wednesday evenings 5-8PM September 1 through May: 80SEK/adult.
LOCATION: SE corner of
Djurgården island, Stockholm, Sweden. Djurgården is part of
Stockholm’s National City Park, and is also the location of the
Skansen open-air natural history museum of Sweden, and the Gröna
Lund amusement park. |
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GETTING THERE from
Stockholm’s center is accomplished:
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By Ferry Boat: ten minutes from Slussen wharf
on Södermalm opposite south end of Gamla Stan.
• By Tram (Trolley): Eastbound
trams along
Strandvägen
• By Car: leave the car; take
public transport or
walk.
• By Bus: take bus 47 or 69 from
Central Station.
• On Foot: walk in about 30 minutes
from Central
Station or Gamla Stan (Old City).
Stockholm Harbor
seen from the
ferry for the Vasa Museum.
Photo
© Home At First |
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LEARN ABOUT
HOME AT
FIRST TRAVEL TO:
STOCKHOLM,
SWEDEN, AND
SCANDINAVIA
Visiting the Vasa Museum is an adventure easily reached
from HOME AT FIRST’s lodgings in
STOCKHOLM & UPPSALA.
This day trip is one of dozens of activities suggested in
HOME AT FIRST’s exclusive "STOCKHOLM
ACTIVITY GUIDE”
Provided to HOME AT FIRST guests to
SCANDINAVIA.
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YOUR DREAM TRIP BEGINS BY CONTACTING
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