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ADVENTURE OF THE MONTH—DECEMBER, 2004

DROP INTO OSLO
        Parachute into Oslo sometime. Come as you are—youthful Norway is informal and casual. You don’t need much preparation. Bringing a map isn’t necessary—they give them away free at the city’s two excellent Tourist Information Offices. A smattering of language will only be a luxury—Norwegians, like all Scandinavians, learn English in school at a young age. Do bring your curiosity. Lose your timidity. Money is helpful, but not as much is required as you might think. Matter of fact, thanks to the high-speed airport train, parachuting into Oslo isn’t even necessary.

OSLO SEEN FROM THE ROYAL PALACE

NAKED IN THE PARK
        Once a frumpy Northern European backwater with severe Lutheran hang-ups about alcohol, late hours, and other vacation temptations, Oslo has morphed into one of Scandinavia’s modern showcase cities, joining its capital cousins, Copenhagen and Stockholm, as livable, sophisticated, enlightened, and active all year round. Oslo isn’t Sin City East. For one, it’s more youthful. And, although you can probably find a gutter if you look hard enough, Oslo’s active, youthful image is fresh-scrubbed and wholesome.

        On sunny warm summer days in the Frogner Park Norwegian girls sun themselves topless as discretely and apparently as innocently as is possible in such a popular public space. Nakedness does draw thousands daily to Frogner Park, even in snowy January. But it’s statutory. Make that statue-tory. The statues are clustered in a remarkable section of the park devoted to the life’s work of sculptor Gustav Vigeland, who created the almost 200 pieces of art representing more than 600 human figures—all naked and all portraying some aspect of the human condition.

THE HUMAN CONDITION IN GRANITE AT OSLO'S FROGNER PARK

        The great expanses of Frogner Park lure Norwegians for less sedate activities, too. There are runners and rollerbladers and roll-skiers and soccer games and frisbee. To say that the Norse are active is akin to saying the Italians have a passing interest in food and wine. All Norwegians, it seems, have an enthusiastic passion for the out-of-doors. In Norway health, beauty, and athleticism are one concept, so even in their most populous city Norwegians are never far from Nature.

AN ACTIVE, HISTORIC, AND TRENDY HARBOR
        Nor from Water. Oslo is built around the elegantly curved harbor at the top of the Oslo Fjord. The harbor is big and deep—the largest freighters and warships have no difficulty tying up at wharfside. And there is still plenty of sailing room for the thousands of small boats—powered by motor or by wind—that share Oslo’s harbor. If Norwegians are wannabe athletes, they are wannabe-more sailors. Oslo’s harbor is divided into industrial, cultural, historic, long-distance passenger, and local traffic sections, and gleams with the self-confidence that the capital of nouveau riche Norway can easily afford.

OSLO'S HARBOR VIEWED FROM ITS MEDIEVAL FORTRESS RAMPARTS

        Oslo’s harbor’s water is clean, too, and lacks the brackish smell you might expect of an arm of sea. That makes the harbor side restaurants—and there are dozens featuring a wide variety of foods, styles, and prices—all the more appealing. During the day, Oslo’s quayside is full of visitors to its medieval castle/fortress, Akershus, and the radically modern brick Oslo City Hall. Others come here to take boat rides on the harbor and fjord, or to cross the harbor by water taxi to visit the museums at the lovely, upscale suburban town of Bygdøy.

CANNONS AT OSLO'S AKERSHUS MEDIEVAL FORTRESS

        In Bygdøy, there are 5 museums scattered across this hilly, sleepy village of large Victorian or belle époque homes. Each museum may be visited in an hour, and you can combine a look at one or two with a walk through Bygdøy and an open air, quayside lunch. The museums provide insights into Norway and the character of its people:

• the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History
• the Norwegian Maritime Museum
• the Fram Museum (after the Fram, the ship that explored
   the arctic regions with Nansen, Amundsen, and Sverdrup)
• the Viking Ship Museum (a stunning collection of dragon
   boats—most found locally)
• the Kon-Tiki Museum, devoted to the late Thor Heyrdahl’s
   explorations/recreations of possible cross-ocean migrations
   by primitive peoples.

VIKING SHIP ON DISPLAY AT BYGDØY

        At night the harbor is even more lively—full of the sound of street music and crowds of strollers. The mixed age scene is safe and well lighted, with fashion ranging from teenage casual to 4-star restaurant dressy.

A STROLL DOWN MAIN STREET
        Between Frogner Park and the harbor is the Royal Palace, on a manicured hillside with a commanding view of the city and its main thoroughfare, Karl Johan’s Gate. The palace grounds, complete with uniformed soldiers and a prim, entertaining changing of the guard ceremony, are completely accessible, and usually lively with visitors and regular foot and bicycle traffic during the day. The palace really is home to the Norwegian royal family, a handsome, intelligent, athletic, and sophisticated group that serves as a model family for the nation.

OLSO'S ROYAL PALACE—PRIVATE RESIDENCE ON PUBLIC GROUNDS

        Walk down Karl Johan’s Gate from the palace right through the heart of Oslo. In less than a mile you pass through cultural Oslo, political Oslo, shopping Oslo, and end at transport Oslo. Along the way is the city’s excellent university, the National Theater, a wonderful boulevard park with public ice skating in winter, Norway’s Parliament building, a shoppers-only pedestrian mall, and, finally, Oslo Central Station. The station is the hub of public transport throughout Oslo, and beyond. Rail, bus, subway, and tramlines all cluster here, including the ultramodern high-speed airport line. Long distance rail services to other parts of Norway and Scandinavia also start here. Importantly, there are tourist information, currency exchange services, fast food restaurants and a shopping mall all within the transportation complex.

HOLIDAY SKATERS ALONG KARL JOHAN'S GATE

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