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THIS ARTICLE
FIRST APPEARED IN APRIL 2006. EXPANDED & UPDATED: OCTOBER 2010. |
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It has stood
as silent and as old as the Sphinx lo these several millennia, mocking us with its
riddles, defying us with its unfathomable logic, captivating us with its fearful symmetry.
Scattered ruins in a circular cluster draw upwards of 1 million pilgrims annually to a
triangle of land wedged between two rural roads on the Salisbury Plain of Wiltshire,
England. We dont know why it was built or who built it. If Stonehenge was built to
bring people together to wonder in metaphysical awe at the magical mysteries of Nature,
God, and Man, it triumphs still.
Many things we know conclusively
about Stonehenge:
WHEN STONEHENGE WAS BUILT. It was built and altered in
several stages over a period of 1500
years between 3000BC and 1500BC. When the Romans arrived in Britain 200 years ago, the
newest parts of Stonehenge were already 1500 years old and the monument was a partial
ruin.
HOW STONEHENGE WAS BUILT. Archeological evidence indicates that Stonehenge was originally
an earthwork circle that evolved into a more complex structure, first with wooden posts
and later with huge stones set in phases over hundreds of years.
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WHERE
THE STONES CAME FROM. The original 80
monolithic bluestones weighing several tons each were brought with great difficulty over
land, sea, and inland via rivers and portage from 240 miles away in the Preseli Hills of
southwestern
Wales. Later in the Bronze Age even larger sarsen
stones of 25+ tons were dragged in from northern Wiltshire almost 20 miles from
Stonehenge. Modern experiments have shown how prehistoric people could move and erect such
large stones with precision using only simple tolls and no wheels. |

BLUESTONES & SARSENS
The massive stones for Stonehenge came
from quarries in Wales and north Wiltshire.
Photo
© HOME AT FIRST
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STONEHENGE DOES NOT STAND ALONE. It stands in a broad local landscape loaded with dozens of other
prehistoric monuments: earthworks, circles, burial chambers, mounds and barrows, each
significant, each mysterious, each somehow related to all the rest. Together with a second
major prehistoric landscape at nearby Avebury, Stonehenge has been a listed UNESCOs
World Heritage Site since 1986.
Two great mysteries remain:
Who built Stonehenge? and
Why was
Stonehenge built? Over the last 2000
years many scholars (and at least as many crackpots) have offered up theories that attempt
to solve the mysteries. Heres a sampling:
Ancient Welsh texts credit Merlin the Magician with the magical transporting of the bluestones
thought to
have magical healing powers
to Stonehenge to form a symbolic Round Table for a
Wiltshire Camelot.
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Stonehenge imagined by
Inigo Jones
as a Roman temple.
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Great English
17th century architect Inigo Jones
could not believe that such a sophisticated structural array as Stonehenge could be
designed and built by primitives. He posited the idea that
the Romans built
Stonehengeand drew up complex plans of how a Roman temple would have looked at
Stonehenge. |
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John
Aubrey, who first discovered and analyzed
the ring of "post holes" at Stonehenge that bear his name ("Aubrey
Holes") was the first modern to suggest that Druids were responsible for building
Stonehenge as a temple for their Celtic religion. Aubrey had read of Roman accounts of
the Druid priesthood from the time of Julius Caesars invasion of Britain in 55BC. What Aubrey
didnt know, however, was that Stonehenge was already 1500 to 3000 years old at the
time of Julius Caesar, and already in partial ruins. The people who populated
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Stonehenge imaged in a
painting from
1820. Was it a place of ancient
Celtic ritual performed by Druids? |
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Britain long before the Celts arrived
with their Druid
priests were likely the actual builders of Stonehenge. |
Recent archeological scholarship suggests that
the
"Beaker People" of the New Stone
Age began the earliest construction of Stonehenge sometime around 3000BC. Pottery and tool
artifacts unearthed at Stonehenge support the idea that these primitives were on the site
and were the likely builders. The design of the henge (an earthen ditch and bank circle)
with a northeastern orientation in line with the exact point of the rising sun on the
summer solstice suggests that Stonehenge was more than a simple temple or burial ground
for important priests or Celtic kings, queens, and nobles. Indeed, as has been suggested
in other ancient sites in Egypt, Mexico, and Peru, Stonehenge may have been designed on an
intricate mathematical plan as an astrological calendar that could accurately predict the
seasons, the phases of the moon, and even ellipses.
MODERN DRUIDS AND STONEHENGE
Of all the proposals tendered one has best
caught the public imagination. Not long after John Aubrey first suggested that Druids were
the likely founders of Stonehenge, Druid societies began popping up in Britain, the USA,
and Australia. So popular were these semi-secret organizations in their Ku Klux Klan like
white robes and hoods that their annual ceremonies on "mid-summer" have drawn
great crowds to Stonehenge at dawn on the morning of the summer solstice for well over 100
years. Among the members of the Ancient Order of Druids
one of the more mystical
groups dating from the Victorian era
was none other than Winston Churchill, who
joined while a young man at Oxford.
Modern Druids popularized Stonehenge as a
tourist destination. Much damage was caused to the monument by the throngs who swarmed
over its stones, until
in 1984 Stonehenge became the charge of
English Heritage, Englands public/private agency set up by Parliament to oversee and care
for the countrys most important historic and prehistoric sites.
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STONEHENGE TODAY
In the last two decades Stonehenge has become
tightly controlled, with organized parking, licensed guides, and restricted access to the
stones. When you visit today during normal operating hours a rope fence keeps you from
getting within 20 feet of the stone circle. Inaccessibility may not be the only
disappointment in store for visitors. Two busy rural roads, the A344 and the A303, flank
the property on oblique angles that bring car noise and exhaust fumes to less than the
length of a football field from the monument. Just beyond the entrance walkway to
Stonehenge is a line of |
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hucksters
hawking ice lollies, souvenirs, and what |
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Stonehenge
— satisfying from 30 yards away.
Photo
© HOME AT FIRST
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passes in England for hamburgers.
If your first impression of Stonehenge is that
of a seedy tourist trap, your second impressiononce inside the entrance gateis
that the circle is smaller than expected and very exposed to the blustery, wet weather
that washes over the plateau of the Salisbury Plain. Bring a sweater, a hat, gloves, a
jacket, and rain protection. The third impression is disappointment that you cannot wander
among and touch the stonesthey beg for it. The fourth impression is that there are
too many tourists milling around as |
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close to the stones as possible, straining to hear |
the droning of the tour guides attempting to
de-mystify one of the world’s great mysteries.
Its the fifth impression of Stonehenge
thats satisfying. Back away from the stone circle 30 or more yards into the grassy
field, enough to minimize the human presence, enough to put the circle into its natural
presence caught between the Englands solid green earth and the drama of its John
Constable sky. Spellbinding. |
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Opening Times & Admission:
OPEN DAILY: March 16 through May 31: 9:30AM 6PM
June
1 through August 31: 9AM 7PM
September
1 through October 15: 9:30AM 6PM
October
16 through March 15: 9:30AM 4PM (exception: closed Dec.
24-25)
ADMISSION: £6.90/adult,
£5.90/senior/student, £3.50/child, £17.30/ family (2 adults + up to 3 children)
Getting There:
Stonehenge is within day trip range of
Home
At First lodgings in three regions of
England:
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BY CAR FROM THE SOUTHERN
COTSWOLDS: From Home At Firsts cottages in/near
Tetbury,
take the B4014 south to Malmesbury, then the A429 south to Junction 17 of the M4.
Dont enter the M4. Instead continue south on the A350 for Chippenham. Take the A420
into Chippenham, then the A4 southeast to the A342 direction Devizes. (Canal enthusiasts,
stop at Devizes to see the 16 consecutive locks stepping up Caen Hill bringing the very
much functioning Kennet & Avon Canal into Devizes from the west. Stop for lunch at the
Caen Hill Café at the top of the lock ladder.) From Devizes, take the A360 south toward
Amesbury and Salisbury. About 1 mile east of Shrewton, at an |

The 16
stepped canal locks at Devizes. |
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intersection where the
A360 turns right for Salisbury, take the A344 (straight)
towards Amesbury. In about ¾ mile you will arrive at the
parking area for Stonehenge, on the right of the A344. |
BY CAR FROM THE NORTHERN
COTSWOLDS: From Home
At Firsts cottages in/near Chipping Campden, take the A44
northwest to Evesham, then the A46 southwest toward Tewkesbury. At Junction 9 of the M5,
take the M5 south the M4, then the M4 east to Junction 17. From the M4, drive south on the
A350 for Chippenham. Take the A420 into Chippenham, then the A4 southeast to the A342
direction Devizes. (Canal enthusiasts, stop at Devizes to see the 16 consecutive locks
stepping up Caen Hill bringing the very much functioning
Kennet & Avon Canal into
Devizes from the west. Stop for lunch at the Caen Hill Café at the top of the lock
ladder.) From Devizes, take the A360 south toward Amesbury and Salisbury. About 1 mile
east of Shrewton, at an intersection where the A360 turns right for Salisbury, take the
A344 (straight) towards Amesbury. In about ¾ mile you will arrive at the parking area for
Stonehenge, on the right of the A344.
BY CAR FROM
DEVONSHIRE:
From
Home At Firsts Devonshire cottages in/near Dartmoor, take the A386 south to the A38
at Plymouth, then the A38 east to Junction 31 of the M5 near Exeter. Take the M5 north two
exits to Junction 29, then the A30 east toward Honiton. Five miles beyond Honiton pick up
the A303 northeast across Dorset and into Wiltshire almost all the way to Amesbury. Three
miles west of Amesbury, and 1 mile after the A303 junction with the A360, turn left on the
A344 at Stonehenge. Parking is ½ mile ahead on the A344.
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BY RAIL FROM
LONDON: From Home At Firsts
Apartments
at St. Katharines Marina by the Tower of London, walk 5-8 minutes to the Tower
Hill Underground station. Take the District or Circle Line subway train west 6 stops to
Embankment station. Change at Embankment to the Northern Line southbound one stop to
Waterloo BritRail station. (Total journey time to Waterloo from St. Katharines
Marina: 35 minutes.) At Waterloo, catch an express train for
Salisbury. Service is half-hourly, currently departing Waterloo at 20 minutes and 50
minutes past each hour. Journey time to Salisbury is less than 90 minutes, with current
arrivals at 18 minutes and 42 minutes past each hour.
Round-trip fares from Waterloo to Salisbury: start at
about £27/person (off-peak travel times). |

Salisbury Cathedral — another
English
treasure just minutes from Stonehenge. |
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At Salisbury train
& bus station look for the The Stonehenge Tour's
buses. Departures are are
hourly on the hour from October through May, and twice
hourly on the hour and the half-hour June through
September. The double-decker special buses take
less than 30 minutes to reach Stonehenge. Professional tour guides accompany each bus,
providing running commentary throughout the two-hour trip. There is no need to
pre-reserve. The bus returns to Salisbury rail station.
While in Salisbury, visit Salisbury Cathedral, one of the worlds
great gothic cathedrals with its magnificent pointed steeple, and wander among the ancient
streets of medieval Salisbury before returning to the rail station for the journey back to
London. Trains back to London Waterloo depart
half-hourly at about 20 minutes and 45 minutes past each hour. Journey time to London is
about 90 minutes. Depart Salisbury as late as 7:25PM and be back home at your St.
Katharines Marina apartment by 9:30PM. |
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You can visit all
kinds of destinations as easy day trips
from Home At First lodgings
in the England.
Our exclusive "Activities Guides" have hundreds
of pages of suggestions for things to see and
do when you travel with Home At First
to:
ENGLAND.
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HOME AT FIRST offers travel to six regions of England, five
regions of Scotland,
4 regions of Ireland and 2 regions of Wales.
You can have your own
cottage or apartment in the British Isles location of your dreams. Minimum rental is one week, and you can mix and match
with other HOME AT FIRST destinations:
SCOTLAND
ENGLAND
IRELAND and
WALES
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