10. WALKING FROM
ALL HALLOWS BY THE TOWER TO ST. KATHARINE’S MARINA
— All history & tourists, but no traffic —
Beyond All Hallows by the Tower there are no more streets to cross, no more cars, red buses and black taxis to dodge. Walk toward the Thames. Before turning left (east) on Lower Thames Street, note the old Customs House to your right (west) on the riverfront. This neo-classical building is the last of several that were built here in the region of the Thames between the Tower Bridge and London Bridge known as the Upper Pool. Although damaged during the Blitz, the building is essentially the same as it was when completed in 1813. Although no longer serving as the import/export tax control center, the building remains a symbol of the historic importance of the Pool of London (including St. Katharine’s Docks) as London’s gateway to world trade. The first Controller of Customs and Excise at the 14th century version of the Customs House was England’s greatest medieval poet, Geoffrey Chaucer ("Canterbury Tales").
Walking east along Lower Thames Street leads directly to the Millennium Pier and the western ramparts of The Tower of London. Moored across the Thames is the imposing heavy cruiser, HMS Belfast, a floating museum of the Royal Navy from WWII.
At the Millennium Pier the Thames Path leads between The Tower of London and the river. It will doubtless be filled with visitors hurrying to get into the Tower, sitting on benches, strolling with ice-lollies, or photographing each other, the Tower and the Tower Bridge. The Tower, of course, is one of the world’s best known castles and London’s most popular single attraction. Home to the Royal Crown Jewels and infamous tales of murder, torture, execution, and mystery, the Tower has occupied this spot since William the Conqueror had it built in 1078 to impress Norman will on London’s resident Saxons. Inside its several walled defenses are twenty "towers", including the original White Tower—a classical Norman castle keep—and the Bloody Tower, where it is believed the murder of the Little Princes occurred in 1483. The Thames Path leads past Traitors Gate, where prisoners of the Crown were brought by boat on what was often their last journey.
Look across the Thames from Traitors Gate to see London’s new City Hall, an ultra-modern glass half-dome that opened in 2002, and proof that Londoners can look into the future as well as into the past.
Straight ahead along the Thames Path is perhaps London’s most famous view for the past 100+ years: the Tower Bridge. The bascule drawbridge was completed in 1894. It was needed to help solve traffic problems just as London was entering the age of the motorcar. The lift portions are frequently opened to permit shipping to pass. The upper walkways between the bridge towers permit foot traffic to cross the bridge when the bascules are open. The Tower Bridge Exhibition (open from at least 10AM-6PM daily; admission: £5.50/adult, £4.25/senior, £3/children) lets visitors to the bridge experience the panoramic views from the high-level walkways, learn about how the bridge was built, and see the original steam engines that used to power the bascule lifts.
The Thames Path crosses beneath the north approach to the Tower Bridge, and continues past St. Katharine’s Pier and the landmark Tower Thistle Hotel to the channel locks entrance to the former St. Katharine’s Docks. Now home to the yacht basin, shops, restaurants, and apartments of St. Katharine’s Marina, the old docks—Home at First’s primary London address—themselves have seen almost 1,000 years of recorded history. But that’s a story for another time.
